A Chuck for Boring Cork
by
Mike McGuire
The cleanest way I
have found for boring cork rings for rod handles is to use a core drill
approach. This takes the form of thin walled brass tubing
with the inside edge sharpened. The brass is commonly available
in hardware stores, comes in 12" lengths with 1/64" walls and diameters
in steps of 1/32". The nicest way to cut it squarely is with a
parting tool in a lathe. A tubing cutter may work if used carefully. It
is soft enough that the inside edge can be sharpened with a knife
as shown here--safest to do turning the chuck by hand..

The
cork rings come at a nominal diameter of 1.25". A simple setup
that will work is to bore a 1.25" flat bottomed hole with a Forstner
bit in a piece of wood clamped to a drill press and set
the cork ring in the hole and drill it with the core drill. as
shown here.

This
works but is not my preferred way to do it.. Some cork rings come
slightly off dimension, either over or under, which makes the
setup hard to use. The corks in place on a rod blank tend not to be as
straight as I would like. This can be taken up with more clamping force
on the grip at glue up, but I don't care for this. My solution is a
cork chuck used in my lathe. The starting point is a 1" nominal
diameter PVC screw thread pipe cap.

I
say 1" nominal because is actually about 1.6" outside diameter, 1.150"
inside diameter. The 1.0" is the inside diameter of the pipe on which
it would be used.
It is necessary to machine the outside to remove the ribs and
ring which would interfere with the chuck function. The easiest way to
hold it to machine it is to screw it onto a pipe fitting that is easier
to hold in the lathe chuck as shown here.

Here
the ribs etc. have been machined off, the end faced flat, a 1/2 "
diameter circle scribed in the end, and small hole for a screw bored in
the center.. Next the cap is reversed in the chuck, and the screw
thread machined away to a diameter of about 1.28". Using the
chuck jaws as a guide, three equally spaced lines are drawn on the cap.

The cap is sawed on the marked lines to the 1/2" circle marked on the back.

Here
is the finished cork chucK. A 1/2" thick by 1" diameter wood disk is
mounted in it with a screw through the hole in the back. This makes a
surface for the core drill to exit the cork without tearing and to get
the cork ring square in the chuck.

Here is the chuck in use. The slits are about halfway between the chuck jaws.

Couple
of final tips--Clean the core of the drill after every cut or it may
mess up the next cut. It may be that a cork rings with a smaller hole
than the standard 1/4" are needed. Cut some cores with a 1/4" inside
diameter core drill from a sacrificial ring, and glue them into the
rings. Then drill them to size.